Next

 

Add the contents of the concentrate bag. 

 

 

You want to rinse the bag out and get all of the residue that is left in the bag. 

 

Next

 

 

 

At this point the must should be about 65-75 degrees.  During fermentation the must can rise up to 10 degrees so pitching temps should be in this range (the lower the better).  

If your kit came with oak chips or elderflowers you are going to want to add them now.

 

 

Make sure to keep stirring.

 

 

Next

 

Using your hydrometer you want to check the specific gravity of the must. Make sure the hydrometer is floating, and twirl it before reading.   The S.G. should be above 1.080.  If not keep stirring.  this is a good way to check if the must is mixed properly, also if you want to know the alcohol content of the wine you need to know the original specific gravity.

 

 

As long as the must is mixed thoroughly and the temp is below 75 degrees you can pitch the yeast.  Pitching is the term for adding yeast to the must.

 

 

 

Some will argue that it is necessary to re-hydrate the yeast before pitching but I have found no evidence in practice that it is required.

Next

 

You want to cover the must and affix an airlock.

 

 

 

Now place in a cool dark place and allow to ferment for the next two weeks or so.

 

 

Some have a wine cellar I have a wine closet.

 

 

Within 24 hours you should have a good healthy fermentation going on. 

 

If after 24 hours there is no fermentation happening you should add another package of yeast as well as some yeast nutrient.  This has never happened to me but the longer the must sits with no fermentation the better chances that an infection will occur so I would never just wait and see.  Since each kit costs at least $50 I don't mind spending a few bucks on additional yeast and getting fermentation going quickly.

After two weeks

 

You want to take a gravity reading.

 

For your first batch I would recommend letting your wine ferment out completely (at least to a specific gravity of 1.000 or below).  If you like a dry wine I would let the wine ferment as close to 0.990 as it will go.

 

If a sweeter wine is desired, it can be sweetened to taste after it is cleared and stabilized prior to bottling.  Below you will find a guide to to what the S.G. readings are for finished wine.

 

Next

 

When the wine has fermented out you want to start the clearing and aging process. 

 

Dissolve packet #2 Potassium Metabisulfite in one cup of water and pour into a clean SANITIZED carboy.  Then siphon about half of the wine into the carboy.

 

Then add the Potassium Sorbate (This will aid in stabilizing the wine and help preserve its color). Also add the gelatin that came with the kit (this will clear the wine crystal clear).

 

 

Now just continue to siphon the rest of the wine into the carboy.  You should be up to the neck of the carboy.  If not top off the carboy with the same wine or clean water.  You don't want a lot of surface area so filling up to the neck is extremely important.

 

Now you want to degas the wine.  This is easily done with the skinny end of a spoon or paddle.  You want to stir vigorously for two minutes to get as much gas out of the liquid as possible.  (If this step is skipped your wine might not clear as well as it should).

 

Attach an airlock and put away for clearing and conditioning.  Over the next 5-7 days you want to give the carboy several sharp twists to help drop the sediment off the sides of the carboy.

 

After two weeks your wine should be crystal clear.

 

 

 

When the wine is clear you should rack again into a clean SANITIZED carboy.  Again you want to top off the carboy and put away for another two weeks.

After two weeks

 

You are ready to bottle.

Start by cleaning and SANITIZING 25 wine bottles.  I use oxyclean and a bottle brush to clean all of them.  Then a soak in Star San for sanitizing.

 

 

 

Then rack your wine into your sanitized bottling bucket.

 

 

Now put the tube onto the spigot on the bucket and the other end in a bottle filler.

 

 

 

Now open the valve on the bucket and fill each bottle.

 

 

If you fill the bottle to the top with a bottle filler when you remove it the bottle will have the proper amount of head space.  Just enough for a cork and a little room to move.

 

 

 

 

Next

 

 

 

Corking the wine is done easily if you have a floor corker. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I luckily never had to use a hand corker (but did use one at my local homebrew store and quickly decided to spend the extra cash on a floor corker).  You will want to sanitize the corks before putting them in the bottle. 

 

 

 

 

Place a cork in the hole and press down on the lever

 

 

 

 

It’s as easy as that

 

You can adjust the depth of the cork; you want it to be just below the top of the bottle.

 

 

 

 

The last thing I do is put shrink-wrap on the top.  I use different colors for differant wine to easily identify the bottle without labeling them.  Shrinkwrap is a cheap end easy way to keep track of what you have.

 

 

 

 

Simply place the wraps on the top of the bottles and get a small pan of water boiling on the stove.

 

 

 

 

Now grab a bottle and dip it carefully in the water.

 

 

 

 

You can see me holding the wrap with my index finger, I will let go as soon as it touches the water it will shrink and you are done!

 

 

Now just store your wine on its side to keep the corks moist and to keep a good seal.

 

 

Your wine will get better with time but is ready to drink now.  Enjoy and make sure to keep a batch going and build up your stock and you too can have a wine closet of your own.

 

 

 

Cheers and happy brewin'